Want to chat Gundam or just about anything else. On the flip side, if you under do it, i.e. Thanks for the quick reply! Top Coat: Final layer of paint on the kit, usually either clear acrylic or clear lacquer, used to protect all the work done (painting, decals, weathering etc.). How do i clean off nubs of a clear part?? While in Taiwan I had the good fortune of ready access to spray paints, since setting up this little site and receiving letters from other modelers, it's become apparent that good modeling spray cans aren't available in many areas. Anyone have any experience with anything else in Canada ? b. Pre/ Post Shade Colors (Tamiya Acrylics) Pouring the 2nd Coat. Oh nice. is it good to paint it directly with oil based paint with brush for the parts? This particular product, some of them say that they're fast-drying. Also, if this would work would I have to prime first? I was panel lining the frame of my MG Wing Zero EW and the knee and part of the lower leg just crumbled to pieces. If I’ve gone through the trouble of painting a kit I want it to look great right down to the markings so this is where the water-slide decals come in. It is sealed, doesn’t stain, hard like plastic (the thicker the coat, the more like plastic, but I am not necessarily recommending a heavy coat). If the finish is to be different then I’ll spray the one finish before masking then the second after the second color is painted and before I remove the masking. The easiest way would be to find a can of clear spray. I wish we had more accessibility to these spray cans in Japan. One EXTREMELY DIFFICULT question: Use #122-A Gel Coat Thickness Gauge to ensure proper thickness is achieved. and I dont like the blue I wanted to spray paint it black. Now, time to prep my materials for painting. I agree with Ol'Painting, 2 coats for new walls in not enough. so I was wondering if clear green Mr. Hobby paint can leave an identical effect as the Tamiya clear green. When dry, I flipped the parts over and sprayed again. The Army Painter line offers a whole bunch of coloured primers that look fantastic. 3) Does gloss coat and top coat impede the joints on the Gunpla kits at all? i’ve been wondering the same for the panel lining too since in your demo you’re using enamel paint as well. I’ve been looking at either getting some spray cans or borrowing a friends air brush. How to Paint a Gundam with Brushes Martin's Introduction. Some lighter metal colors have no problem going on dark pieces, but in general, whites, yellows, oranges, light blues, some reds, will need primer if going on to darker colors. Top coat is a transparent coat of paint that is used as a sealer, a "save point" to be exact. Today I'll be talking about the HG Exia kit, specifically the Repair II version that makes its grand appearance … Keep in mind that the fit on those kits is pretty tight so some of that paint could come off when you move the limbs around. As a powder coater, you may need to apply two coats for a variety of reasons whether for protective reasons or appearance applying a second coat of powder is important to know how to do well. First of all, thanks for this, really appreciate the effort you put in making this blog and how youre helping out gunpla modellers, specially us beginners. If not, you may assemble and find that two concurrent pieces, having not received the same coats, feature different tones. Couple of question to ask here. Can I spray clear flat lacquer on enamel paint? A good temperature should be above 22 degrees and with good sunlight. Yes, but how about holding the parts when I’m painting, and by the way I will use spray paint so I wonder how to dry the part after spray painting because almost the whole part would be covered with paint and some parts does not have any hole or anything that I can put a stick and clip on it. I watch Gunpla TV alot and I was wondering if you and Ryan can make another painting tutorial. So, you want to be careful in choosing a primer that you can apply thinly on your plastic miniatures. thanks for your informative post. I've heard future can take up to a week to cure, but around the board i see 24 hours. Wish me luck on my first try with my MG Deathscythe Hell EW! To find out how many coats you need, we reached out to celebrity manicurist and NVLA nail polish founder Gina Alcedo, who has painted the nails of Amal Clooney, Donatella Versace, and Beyoncé. Resin, on the other hand, needs both a wash and prime for best results. A spray primer is the best choice, since spraying is the easiest way to apply thin layers over a model. Then when all that is done you can do the matte top coat to finish. I tried painting up my sengoku astray with tamiya spray, but it ended up causing the cockpit hinge to break, part of the back piece that holds on the swivel piece the back “arm” connects to, and had a balljoint twist off at it stem when I was testing the friction. Sometimes term is also used to describe any clear coat on the kit, including the ones used in between various stages. Love your work an Gunpla TV thx for all the tips man! Don’t apply too much poly. 2) I usually wait half a day or so. Do you spray the topcoat on using the same technique as you spraypaint? Once all is done, go over with either TS-79 or TS-80. These lines have dried for about 2 weeks. The second coat helps assure a uniform coat. Ok new question. Thx for the advise. Note that covering with white primer is going to be time consuming and require a lot of a lot of coats. When you sand the piece, do you deepen the panel lines first? Gel Coat Application Guide Photo credit IStock Photo. Take Our Gel Coat Application Quiz! I think you can find clear in red, blue, green, orange, and yellow, and probably more. If my first kit comes out good I’ll enter it the the contest and see how I do. Building a kit with the intention of painting calls for a little bit of a different approach than one just out of the box. I haven't primed with my airbrush yet and, depending on who you ask, results from various brands & methods come off as too inconsistent for me to comment on. Don’t do it on a damp day! I do have a question about the lacquer top coat, unfortunately where I live I can only buy car paints (which are expensive ) as there are no hobby shops! Apparently many other modelers prefer to apply a layer of topcoat before they ink panel details, then add another coat afterward to seal the work. I don’t have any experience with Testors enamel sprays. Difficulty GradesTerminologyBuilding EquipmentDetailing EquipmentPainting EquipmentMisc EquipmentGlue Guide, Project FlowchartConstruction GuideDetail LinesDecals & StickersTop Coats, Paint Space PrepPaint TypesSampling PaintsPaint ReferencesPrimingAirbrushingPreshadingSpray CansDecanting PaintsMaskingCamouflageHand Painting, Weathering (Old Tutorial)Weathering General Thank you! (lacquer primer > acrylic pre and post shade > lacquer top coat)? Yes, you can do a panel wash onto plastic and the best part is you don’t have to be careful about ruining a paint job. I usually don’t do much to anything to panel lines unless I’m scribing them myself. If you enjoy what it is you do and are satisfied with the result, how can it be wrong? 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